Introduction

Introduction

Dominating the valley of the Santa River, the twin summits of Huascarán are the highest and most outstanding of Peru. As well as this, Huascarán is the highest mountain in the tropics of the American continent, something which has attracted numerous expeditions since the beginning of the XX^th century.

The origin of its name has several explanations: The Ancash Map by the explorer Antonio Raimondi (1873) suggests the mountain comes from Huascán, meaning “attractive” or “appealing” according to G. Stiglich (1922). Others believe the origin of the name is linked to the Inca emperor Huáscar.

Mythology of the Cordillera Blanca

The origin of this mountain range is told in a heartbreaking legend: “Huascarán once was a woman with several children, but her husband Canchón was seduced by Sutoc who was a better cook. Huascarán was extremely jealous and castrated her husband then ran away along with their kids. The eldest one followed her closely while the youngest was further back; the favorite son she carried on her back. When they stopped to rest they turned into the Cordillera Blanca, and her tears became the creeks which form the River Santa and River Marañon. Canchón also turned to stone and became the most beautiful mountain of the Cordillera Negra. His lover Sutoc and their children are together with him in this other region of Peru and their tears created creeks and rivers. *


Disaster of Yungay

Over the past centuries there have been several natural disasters associated with the glaciers within the Huascarán. The worst of them took place on the 31st May 1970 when a strong earthquake caused glaciers to fall apart in the northern area creating a mudflow; this mudflow went through the Shacsha river, over a small hill and finally covered the town of Yungay and its 17,000 inhabitants; ironically the only place spared from destruction was the cemetery. Today, this area has been consecrated as a place of respect to the victims.


1^st Absolute Ascent of Huascarán Sur:

1932 Route ("ruta de la Garganta"):
H. Bernhard, E. Hein, H. Hoerlin, E. Schneider, July 20, 1932. Accessed from Yungay upto W glaciar. Ascent by the "Garganta" and NW face of South summit.

1^st Absolute Ascent of Huascarán Norte:

1908 Route:
A. Peck, R. Taugwalder, G. zum Taugwald, September 2, 1908. Accessed by the W glacier and the by the "Garganta", later by the SW face and the South Ridge upto the North summit.


Notes
*Legend taken from the book Yuraq Janka, guide to the peruvian andes. John F. Ricker. More information about other ascents to Huascarán North and South can be found in the same book.
**An altitude of 6.746m and 6.655m is given to the South and North summits of Huascarán by the Military Geographical Institute of Lima, Perú in their topographical map "Hoja Carhuas".
***An altitude of 6.768m and 6.654m is given to the South and North summits of Huascarán by the D.O.S. (Deutscher Alpenverein) in theier map “Nevado Huascarán, Cordillera Blanca, Perú”, published in Vienna, 1964.