Introduction

Introduction

The Tocllaraju is a spectacular pyramid-like massif that rules over the Ishinca valley with white and perfect stateliness. Famous because of its beauty and because of the many visitors it receives each season as well, this mountain of luring faces and ridges is crowned in its summit by a tremendous ice mushroom.

Toclla-raju means "trap-mountain" in quechua, a name which certainly corresponds to its captivating nature. The image of this mountain certainly beguiles and hypnotizes. If well it is true that this mountain isn´t the valley´s highest peak, it is the mountain which most climbers attracts every season.


Cronology of First Ascents

1^st Absolute Ascent
1939 Route:
W. Brecht and H. Schweiser, July 31, 1939. Accessed by Quebrada Honda and Quebrada Cancahua. Ascent by the North Glaciar and NW Ridge.

1959 Route:
L. Ortenburger and K. Ross, June 30, 1959. Accessed by Quebrada Honda and Quebrada Cancahua. Ascent by the North Glaciar and NW Ridge. 100-150m below the summit they traversed the North Face all the way to the East Ridge, by which they reached the summit.

1963 Route:
Daniel Bach, Albert Bezinge, Jean-Jacques Fatton and Carlo Jaquet, August 7, 1963. Accessed by Quebrada de Ishinca, then by SW glacier. Ascent along the NW face and later NE ridge.


Notes
* The altitude of 6034m given to the Nevado Tocllaraju is taken from the map "Hoja Huari" by the Military Geographical Institue of Lima, Perú.
** The altitude of 6032m is taken from the map “Cordillera Blanca (Perú) - South Part”, published in Innsbruck, 1939, by the Deutscher Alpenverein.
*** During the last years, new routes have been put up in the Tocllargu. Unfortunately we don´t have detailed information about these ascents. If anyone has this info, it would be vary appreciated if he shared it by sending it to [email protected].