Introduction

The traverse through the valley El Callao is an excellent option for those who wish to see the flora, fauna and culture of the mountainous zone of the Los Lagos region. The historic and well-preserved route leads through evergreen forests with thousand year old trees, and across meadows with grazing livestock. In the middle of route spout thermal waters. What with the pristine air, the beautiful surroundings, the delicious food, the crystalline water of the rivers and the soothing thermal baths, it may be difficult for you to tear yourself away from this wonderful place.

The valley El Callao is located in the Parque Nacional Vicente Pérez Rosales. This protected area is the oldest national park in Chile, founded in 1926 and today spreads over 253,000 hectares. In 2007 it was chosen to become part of a select group of Biosphere reserves. It is mainly made up of Temperate Rain forests of the Austral Andes with flora such as Cinnamon trees, Olivillo, Arrayán, Ulmo, Pitras and Coigüe and is inhabited by native species of fauna such as the Pudú, Puma and the Lesser grison. Starting in the south, the traverse begins in Puerto Rincón on the northeast shore of Lake Todos los Santos, and ends in the village of Las Gaviotas on the eastern side of Lake Rupanco. From here it is possible to continue north and enter the Parque Nacional Puyehue to complete the Pampa Frutilla traverse.

This long traverse is also known as the route Todos Los Santos-Rupanco/Rupanco-Todos Los Santos or as Ruta de los Jesuitas. However, there are various routes by the same name as the latter, with it being more representative of the route which connects Ralún with Bariloche via the Paso Vuriloche.

This beautiful route was recently improved and become one of the routes of Sendero de Chile.

Appropriate season

The route can be completed all year round, although ideally between November and April. This is due to the strong rains which erode the paths and boat across Lake Todos los Santos. We recommend that you ask for information regarding the condition of the route from Conaf at Parque Nacional Vicente Pérez Rosales by calling: (+65) 212036/75124982.

Access

The traverse has two ports are its start and end points: Puerto Rincón and Las Gaviotas. You will have to take a boat to reach both places. Below both journeys are explained for starting in the north or south.

From the south

The closest town is Puerto Varas. From here follow route 225 to the dock at Lake Todos los Santos in Petrohué. This 75km leg can be completed in private or public transport; the latter starts in the centre of Puerto Varas and takes 1½h. Until Ensenada (first 45km) the road is paved. After this there is a dirk track but it is in good condition.
At the dock in Petrohué, you can cross the lake in one of the tourist boats. The lowest cost for this is CLP$50,000 (approx. USD$100) for up to 4 people and then the cost increase according to the extra passengers. You can book in advance by contacting one of the following people: Marcelo Sánchez: 95033753, Rudy Yefy: 91016673, Héctor Altamirano: 67289304.

From Las Gaviotas, crossing Lake Rupanco is done via public ferry. The boats depart every Monday, Wednesday and Sunday at 14:00 and in 1h they arrive at El Poncho. Here you will have to wait for a bus to Osorno which leave daily at 15:30 and take around 3h. The ferry costs about CLP$250 (approx. USD$0.50) per person and the bus costs CLP$2500 (approx. USD$5) per person.

From the north

If you are planning to complete the route from the north, you will need to arrive at El Poncho on Monday, Wednesday, Friday or Sunday before 15:00 to take the public ferry to Las Gaviotas. There is a bus which leaves at 12:30 and starts at the Osorno bus terminal. In private transport, head to Osorno via route 215 until reaching Entre Lagos, and then follow route Interlagos until reaching El Poncho. Here there is parking available.

To take the boat in Puerto Rincón, organise transport in Termas de Callao or in the Dos Cóndores refuge as there are no permanent departures from Puerto Rincón to Petrohué.

Permits / Prices

The route Valle El Callao is in the Parque Nacional Vicente Pérez Rosales. You will need to register and inform Conaf about completing this route before you start. Park entry prices are: adults and children over 12 years CLP$1500 (approx. USD$3); children under 12 years and adults over 65 years entrance is free.

Accommodation / Facilities

There is a selection of accommodation along the route:

Dos Cóndores Refuge

Cabin for 11 persons, campsite, food service, heated swimming pool. Camping with access to bathroom costs CLP$2500 (approx. USD$5) per person per night; the cabin costs CLP$7000 (approx. USD$14) per person per night, food from CLP$4000 (USD$8).

Termas de Callao

There is accommodation in the owners’ home or in El Callao refuge by the thermal baths. It is alos possible to camp here. Camping costs CLP$2500 (approx. USD$5) per person per night; cabin costs CLP$6000 (approx. USD$14) per person per night, thermal baths CLP$3000 (approx. USD$6) per person. For more information please visit the website.

Laguna Quetros

You can camp beside the lake for CLP$4000 (approx. USD$8). There is covered area for cooking when it rains. Sometimes the owner isn’t there so you can camp for free.

Las Gaviotas

The Mayer and Segovia families offer an area camping for CLP$2000 (approx. USD$4) per person per night as well as horse riding.

Recommendations

• Take cash to pay for campsites and transport (Lake Todos los Santos and Lake Rupanco).
• Take appropriate cloths and equipment for rain and swimwear for the rivers and thermal springs.
• There is the option of walking from El Poncho to Las Gaviotas, adding an extra day to the trip (12km, 3h), walking round Lake Rupanco along its southern bank. 

Gear

• Trekking boots or high-ankle boots.
• Waterproof boots in winter
• Windbreaker and waterproof clothing
• Swimwear
• Sunglasses
• Camping gear (tent, stove, gas, pans and cutlery)
• Food (although it is possible to buy food from the families)
• Trekking poles
• Head torch
• First-aid kit
• Sun protection

Schedule

1. Petrohué (crossing Lake Todos los Santos) - Puerto Rincón - Termas El Callao.
2. Termas El Callao - Laguna Los Quetros. 
3. Laguna Los Quetros - Las Gaviotas (crossing in boat) - El Poncho.