Introduction

The Nevado Alpamayo is located in the northern part of the Cordillera Blanca, area which gathers the most spectacular peaks of this mountain chain. High peaks, eternal snows and extraordinarily steep granite and ice faces make it a breathtaking scenario.

It is said that some decades ago there was a contest to choose the most beautiful mountain on Earth, and the winner was Alpamayo*. No matter if such contest ever happened, Alpamayo is one of those mountains that will stun you, bewilder you and make you dream, dream of being able to climb up its presumptuous flukes, and rejoice just with the idea of reaching its summit. Its pyramidal shape of snow and ice has made it famous worldround, and it is specially known as a wonderfully photogenic mountain. Surprisingly, its name means muddy river or turbid river, probably refering to the homonimous valley located northeast of this mountain and along which a huge alluvion ran in 1950. .


Cronology of ascents

1^st Absolute Ascent:
G. Hauser, B. Huhn, F. Knauss and H. Wiedmann, June 20, 1957. Accessed by the Quebrada de los Cedros, ascent along the North Glacier upto the Quitaraju-Alpamayo plateau. Reached the summit along the South Ridge.

1966 Route:
D. Bathgate and R. Smith, July 9, 1966. Accessed through Hacienda Colcs and ascent along the North Ridge

Variant of the 1966 Route:
M. Steinbeis and P. Gessner. July 20, 1966. Climbed upto the North Col along the same route as in 1966. From the North Col, diagonal ascent across the NW face to the West Ridge. Reached the summit along the West Ridge.

1968 Variant:
L. Irwin, B. Jenkinson, D. Drake and G. Holsworth. June 21, 1968. Reached Pukaqocha through Quebrada Tayapampa. Climbed NE Glacier upto North Col, then climbed to summit along the North Ridge.

1968 Traverse:
H. Schmidt and W. Weinzerl, June 26, 1969. Access through Quebrada Santa Cruz and then by Q. Arweiqocha. Climbed the South Glacier upto the col which forms with the East Ridge. Ascent along the East Ridge and descent by the SE Face.

1975 Traverse Variant:
B. Carson and D. Manning. July 1975. Ascent up the East Ridge and descent by the North Ridge.

1970 Traverse Route:
J. Jolly and J. Stanton, July 6, 1970. Ascent up the NE Face, descent by the North Ridge.

1975 Route (Ferrari):
Casimiro Ferrari, D. Borgonovo, P. Negri, S. Liati, A. Zoia and P. Castelnovo, June 20, 1975. Access by Q. Santa Cruz and Q. Arweiqocha. Ascent upto Quitaraju-Alpamayo Col and final push up the SW Face.



Notes

*The before mentioned contest did have place and the Alpamayo won the first place as the most beautiful mountain on Earth. The competition took place in Munich, Germany, in 1976 and the subject was scenic beaty. Besides, the Alpamayo was declared "the most beautiful mountain on Earth" by the UNESCO in 1966.
**Recomended literature: Yuraq Janka, guide to the peruvian Andes. Author: John F. Ricker.
***During the last years, numerous new routes have been put up. Unfortunately, we do not have detailed information about these.